Leaving Japan T.T

During my 9 months in Japan I have learnt so much about the people, language, and culture of this island.

The people range from two polar extremes; absolute kindness that shines through everything they do (I was twice, during my stay given a car ride by absolute strangers to places which were out of their way, once in Beppu, and once in Gobo), or they come across as a truly racist and sexist nation, there have been times where I was reduced to tears from the constant staring I received from Japanese men (others have simply stopped in the street until I have passed them with a disgusted look upon their face).

 I have been introduced to a variety of Japanese culture here too, my favourites being Karaoke, which is more popular among younger people, and Bon-Odori (traditional Japanese dance) which I was introduced to by my home-stay mother.

Contrasting to my first impressions, I have come to realise that my status as a gaijin has helped me gain access to people to further my studies and usually win their friendship due the ‘celebrity status’ being a foreigner gives. However, one of the things that I have simply loved about the country is the visual aids it gives its people and tourists. Every place I have ever gone to has always provided such great entertainment by the bizarre, funny, and often mistranslated signs.

 I would like to show a montage of these pictures, as when I return to my home, I doubt I will ever see anything like this again! I do not have a large knowledge of Japanses, and as these signs are in pictures, I shall write what I thought these signs meant, and hopefully reveal why I enjoyed their presence so much!

"Do not drop items into the toilet bowl please"This is the correct way to sit on a Western toilet.This is the correct way to sit on a Japanese toilet

Put the bag over your head when trying on clothes to protect the clothes from your make-up

Do not steal bird eggs

Do not feed the pigeons

Please dispose of your rubbish properly

Keep your dog on a lead, and clean up after it!

Smoking causes 'killing fumes'

Kechien Kanjo at Kondo in Koyasan

Over Golden Week I went to Koyasan, a sacred site on the Kii mountain range in Wakayama prefecture. The place was a perfect setting for pilgrimages, and it is a popular pilgrimage site. I had intended to walk the Women’s Pilgrimage, which take the walker around the temples of Koyasan, as they would have experienced before they were allowed in the temples, however the 3 hour time guidance proved to put me off to a large extent! Luckily however, during the period that I went, the Kechien Kanjo ritual took place at the Kondo in the Garan of Koyasan.

The Kechian Kanjo is given twice a year, in May and October, and boasts the same initiation that was received by Kobo Daishi in 805, and that Kobo Daishi first gave in 812.

For a donation of only 3000 Yen, the recipient is blindfolded and led through various rituals in order to establish a deep bond with Mahavairocana Buddha, and by doing so, can discover wisdom.

There were many willing participants who were waiting eagerly alongside the temple, and a large bell was sounded when the ritual was complete.

People waiting to undertake in the ritual. There were also many monks, male and female, walking around the Temple, in preparation for the ceremony. Male monks at the KondoFemale monks near the temple

However, in true Japanese fashion, instead of maintaining sacredness to the event, there was a mascot at the temple, near those who were to take place in the ritual, posing for photographs for various tourists (myself included!) although, anyone for any religious affiliation was welcome to take part in the ritual, so maybe the mascot was not a nuisance.

I want to ride my biiiiicyyycle!

Having recently had my bicycle clamped locally at Makino, I thought I would post on bicycles in Japan. I’d parked my bike by Makino station, without paying and returned to find my bicycle gone. There was no note as to where it had gone, and I only realised it may have been clamped after a shaky conversation in Japanese where I was given a number to call. Being slightly nervous, I didn’t take pictures of my journey to the bike impound (stupid, I know for a visual anthropologist), but here is a view of the impound taken from Google Maps:

 It was very efficient; I had to fill out a form of my name and address and was asked what day I’d had my bike removed and what colour it was. There were separate sections for the days of the week, and they’d grouped together bikes of different colours. All I had left to do was pay a 1500 yen fine, and I was on my way! During my stay in Japan I have been able to take pictures of bike law enforcement in action:

Tickets warning cyclists that their bikes may not be parked in the area.

 Bikes in Japan need to be registered with an address, so it is easy to contact you if it has been lost or stolen, or if you are accused of stealing (although I know no one who has had this happen to them). Almost every family has a bike in Hirakata; they are frequently used, and people use them to go shopping, and even transport up to three children on them. There are many spaces in Hirakatashi where one can park their bike, and the prices range from 150 yen for 24 hours, to 600 yen for over 8 hours. I was informed by a Japanese person that cycling on the path was illegal, and frequently elderly people complain when I cycle past them, but it is rare to see someone cycle on the road!

Parked Bikes

A sign informing on how to use the locks and the cost

Click here for some topical news on bikes in Japan.

Hanami

It would be strange, at this time of the year, NOT to write my blog post on Hanami. Hanami is the term used for the viewing of cherry blossoms, a flower which Japan holds fame for, and which marks the changes in season. A further explanation of the custom can be found here.

Even in Hirakata, the Japanese people gathered to enjoy the cherry blossom; along the small river that runs through the town, cherry blossom was apparent. Rickshaws, lanterns and stalls had been created for the week of hanami.

Collections of people had gathered for picnics underneath the cherry blossom to enjoy its beauty.

People picnicing under Sakura in Hirakata

 

Hirakata

 

The appreciation of hanami extends throughout Japan, however. I had been advised by my home stay mother the best places to go for hanami. This was a conversation which took place for around 45 minutes, along with four other Japanese women. It was concluded that Himeji Castle would be a good place to go (as it is closing for renovation soon as well).

The scale of appreciation for cherry blossom and nature was very apparent here. Hundreds had come to see the blossom, people everywhere were taking pictures of the blossom, along with the castle, but all over the ground were people having large group picnics.

Group of people at Himeji with two visibly taking pictures of the castle and cherry blossom

In the two towns (which are about 1.5 hours away from each other by train) the same customs can be found alongside the same ideals. When asked why Hanami is so important, I was told that it was because: the blossom only lasts for two weeks at the most, it is very beautiful and appreciating nature is inherent in the Japanese way of life.

Leibovitz and Natchwey

Anna Leibowitz and James Natchwey are two very distinct and talented photographers. Their approaches to photography are different, however.

My favourite of the two, Natchwey, focuses on real life issues that he wants to expose which may have been previously ignored by mainstream media, and was inspired by war photos from the Vietnam War. His focus is mainly on modern warfare, which includes the struggles of famine, the tragedies in Rwanda, Chechnya, Bosnia and Palestine to name but a few. Leibowitz in contrast, focuses more on the art formation of the picture, and the subject is usually based around celebrity. She appears to put a lot of thought into her photographs to provoke thought as well as to create art.

The methods that both Leibowitz and Natchwey are again, different. Although Leibowitz claimed that due to her childhood (spent travelling in car) she saw the world in a readymade picture frame, the pictures that made Leibowitz famous were planned in advanced and directed in order to get a good shot. This approach seemed to change later in her career, after she travelled to Bosnia where her approach was similar to that of Natchwey. Natchwey’s method of shooting appears spontaneous acts. He travels to places of disaster, or conflict and simply shoots what he sees. This first appears to be lacking in respect, but in reality he is detached and tries to approach his subjects with sensitivity. He says that in war, civilised behaviour is disregarded; he understands that he may appear insensitive but is accepted by the people he shoots.

Nicole Kidman, Leibowitz

Sudan, 1993 - Famine victim in a feeding centre.

However there are some similarities. Leibowitz too build rapport with her clients; for example the classic images she took of the Rolling Stones was captured when she went on tour with them, as she was able to know them, and they were comfortable with her being around them. Most commented on how they forgot she was there photographing them. Natchwey also, to some extent, plans his photos: he pre-visualises situations that may occur whilst taking photographs.

Keith Richards

Leibowitz takes photo like she eats and breaths, and takes huge (artistic) risks whilst trying to please all of her clients. Natchwey however, uses his photos to “give a voice to those forgotten in conflicts”, although their ‘voice’ can only be heard by those who view his photos.

Whoopi Goldberg

Afghanistan, 1996 - Mourning a brother killed by a Taliban rocket.

The methods that Natchwey uses are easily applicable to Visual Anthropology. His ability to build rapport and picture anything is useful skill for an anthropologist. However, I do not think that his style is suitable for anthropologists. Natchwey uses black and white in most of his photos and this can make the viewer feel detached from the picture as it could be associated with ‘old’ war photos, like that of pictures taken in WWII.

Afghanistan, 1996 - Ruins of Kabul from civil war.

However, when shooting in colour, although not as emotion provoking, it feels more ‘real’ to the viewer.

El Salvador, 1984 - Army evacuated wounded soldiers from village football field.

Leibowitz has said that the best pictures to take are of those in your life, which can influence anthropologists to immerse themselves into whatever culture they are trying to capture.

All Photos by James Natchwey are taken from http://www.jamesnachtwey.com/

Photos by Annie Leibovitz are taken from http://www.pbs.org/wnet/americanmasters/episodes/annie-leibovitz/photo-gallery/19/ except of Keith Richards which can be found at http://images.craveonline.com/article_imgs/Image/UseKEEF(1).jpg

Japanese People

Japanese people, historically, were not focused on themselves as individuals. Japanese feel more in touch with nature, something which runs in line with the underlying Buddhist thought throughout the country. An example of this can be seen at Nijo-jo in Kyoto which contains no portraits of the Shogun, just scenes of nature.

A Geisha looking at Blossom

I took this picture as a representation of Japanese people for several different reasons. The geisha encompasses the traditional Japanese person that most foreigners would think of when thinking about Japan. However, because she is not the focal point of the picture as more emphasis is placed on the blossom. This shows how Japanese people (traditional and modern) are still ‘in touch’ with nature and it plays a major part in their lives.

Of course, traditionalism is not the only type of Japanese portrait. Japan is also riddled with other extremes that run in parallel with traditionalists. Japan is famous for types of television programs such as ‘Sazuke’, and ‘Fūun! Takeshi-jō’ (Takeshi’s Castle). The type of person shown on these programs differs greatly from the Japanese in everyday life. The people of Japan are bound in forms of respect and indebtedness, and this causes them to behave respectfully in many social situations. These types of programs may help Japanese as a ‘release’ from the pressures of everyday life.

This Japanese man was dressed up as a wrestler. I was unable to ask him why he was dressed like this, it may have been his job, but his public appearance was rather contrasting to what I have generally seen in Japan. This does show however two completely different sides to Japanese society and its peoples; one which runs alongside traditional views of Japan, and one which shows a more modern Japan.

Neighbourhood, Hirakata

Hirakata is an average small Japanese town. It has a small shopping mall, a McDonalds, sushi restaurants, and it is smothered in a carpet of cables that run from one building to another.

However, Hirakata also houses many Pachinko slots and Karaoke booths which are typical in any Japanese town and it is this that I will focus on when describing Hirakata’s neighbourhood. Why bother to try and explain something that is integral to Japanese life everywhere, rather than just concentrate something that is focused solely on Hirakata? Well, from what I have seen, Pachinko and Karaoke is integral to life in Hirakata.

Although Pachinko has a certain demographic (which largely excludes young people), Karaoke involves all ages, all genders, and all races. One Japanese person told me that she goes to Karaoke on a family outing maybe once a year (she is not fond of it). But for those who are fond of it, people can go almost every week. I have seen rooms full of elderly friends, rooms of business associates, young friends, and international students.

English songs with Katakana

 What has intrigued me about Karaoke in Japan is how different it is when compared to karaoke in England. Firstly, it is very absent. Secondly, no one ever wants to sing except for wannabes or drunks. In Japan however, it appears that everyone sings, and it is important that everyone has a good time with no one asserting themselves too much over anyone else. I went to Karaoke with a Japanese couple in Hirakata who made sure we all sang an equal number of songs, and also a fair number of group songs.

I have witnessed this among younger Japanese people too; they look like they are singing among having a fun time with friends, rather than trying to outperform each other.

Japanese Youths enjoying Karaoke together

This chapter from Japan pop!: inside the world of Japanese popular culture (Craig, T. J., 2000) highlights the impact of Karaoke on Japanese people, whilst comparing it to Karaoke in the West.

I think that Karaoke is an important part of any neighbourhood in Japan, as is Pachinko. It is a chance for the Japanese to relax, albeit while still being polite when singing with colleagues. Hirakata’s many Karaoke booths and Pachinko slots are probably very important in the neighbourhood and within the community.

First Impressions of Japan

I have been living in Japan since August. Throughout that time Japan has continued to impress me and challenge my preconceptions of the country. Living in England, Japan is seen as an economically great country (only just overtaken as the world’s second largest economy), and riddled with tradition. This much, on the surface, is true. As a student studying Anthropology, it is the integration between modern Japan with traditional Japan that has really amazed me; how businessmen can drop their persona to run around in strange clothing with other members of their community, how so many things are ‘cute’, how Japanese dress up on a day-to-day basis for fashion. In order to covey my first impressions of Japan, I have to cover many topics.

 

 

 

 

 

Communities pulling along floats in the festival of Kishiwada Danjiri Festival 20/09/2009

 

Traditions are an important feature in Japan and this is a lasting impression on someone who has never seen this kind of thing in their own country. It amazed me how, in September, the entire community of Kishiwada, near Osaka, rallied together to build and race floats throughout their town.

 This week, I went to a fertility festival in Asakusa. It has been almost six months since I have been in Japan, and yet the traditions that they carry on with still astounds me. What amazes me more so is how the Japanese people become so involved in festivals like this. So many people were gathered together in a huge crowd in order to witness the rituals, and many clambered to catch a piece of mochi which was thrown by the participants of the ritual and other authoritative figures in the ceremony. The Japanese’ enthusiasm for ‘things’ (as far as I have witnessed, many different things, from Westerners being able to eat with chopsticks, to unexpected sunshine in November,) still impresses me, compared to the relatively silent and non-emotional English that I am used to.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A scene from the fertiliy festival

 

 

  Another noticeable impression that one gets from entering Japan, which never fades during the stay, is the fashion and ‘cuteness’ that can be found almost everywhere. I still cannot get over some fashions, although I have become more immune to how strange it is, by investing in some Japanese fashion myself.

'Cuteness' found on the streets of Toyko

 

Fashion displayed at Harajuku

 Although for a modern country that has stayed relatively clear of being Westernised, the constant misuse of English is quite bizarre to behold; the first picture shows a strange use of English for a sign, and the second shows a Tshirt with English (Engrish) text:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

    

My impression of Japan has changed within six months; at first I was slightly disappointed. Hirakata and the outskirts of Osaka were not the images of Japan that had been cemented in my mind through the media, but I scraped under the surface to find a surprisingly diverse place (for a supposedly homogenous society) and now I can appreciate different aspects of the culture, even if my label of a gaijin still hampers some of my experiences here.